L’Atelier Français des matières
The Atelier français des matières is a company dedicated towards the best quality perfumed raw materials of the world along with the creation of fragrances. It is based near Annecy and took birth, with Remi Pulverail, who launches today his first collection of perfumes, «An anthology of great vintage» perfumes that are to travel into the heart of the material.
An Anthology of great vintage
When ones talks about « bergamo » Nathalie Feisthauer, an independant perfumer, of great talent and original imagination. She is the creator behind not only the Eau des Merveilles from Hermes with Ralf Schwieger, the perfumer, but also L’Eau Belle from Azzaro, Havana from Estée Lauder and many others. From her apprenticeship at the Roure school, in Grasse and famous perfumers she came over and worked with, Nathalie is very knowledgeable of the natural raw materials.For the formulation of these great vintage perfumes,the themes were to be imposed with a free interpretation. Four themes were then programmed : a lovely Italian bergamot, an Egyptian Jasmine, a vanilla from the Comoros Islands and a vetiver from Haiti. Behind each of these ingredients is hidden, men and family company. I will tell you about them in a next article.
Four perfumes opus l’Atelier Français des Matières
The Bergamot from G Franco, in Calabria
When one talks about « bergamot », it is either the Cologne or the fresh waters, or the fragrances of the oriental family that come to one’s mind. « I wanted a true perfume around the bergamot » according to Nathalie. So, she has smelt the different types of bergamot, that to say at the various times of the crop, the diifferent types of extractions.
« To play around the various characters and facets was very fascinating » expresses Nathalie. This perfume exhales the its greedy and floral sides, while developing its smooth xaracteristic due to the presence of the absolute of the mimosa flower and the safron from Cashmere.
The jasmine from Cherifa
This fragrance is a tribute to the flower of jasmine « I chose the Egyptian jasmine, a grandiflorum jasmine from the estate of Chérifa, north of Cairo. And we asked Hussein, the owner, to provide us with absolutes of jasmine from the estate, which was to be produced during the beginning, the middle and the end of the crop.
As a result, I had a whole range of jasmine from the month of June till December. Nathalie played then, with an accord between the jasmine, the Centifolia rose with its chubby look, and very powdery perfume, coming also from Chérifa followed by the sandalwood Without not to forget the clary sage..
Pierre’s vetiver is jus exceptional for Nathalie. It’s a perfume to itself, which devlelops numerous facets. This heart of vetiver has been dressed with an absolue of cacao from the Ivory Coast along with a blond tobacco absolute from Turkey and a tonka bean from Venezuela. So, those elements are there so to escort and leave all tthe power tothe vetiver. Pierre’s vetiver takes us and transport us to Santo Domingo, into the atmosphere of an artisan cigars workshop.
When one mentions the vanilla, it is definitely the one either from Madagascar or from the Comoros Islands. The latter is a planifolia variety. With Amine’s vanilla, you will find chocolate and biscuit odours but also deep aromatic notes which are very different from the usual odours of the greedy vanilla. Here, Nathalie decided to add the Madagascar essence of clover, along with the absolute of blond tobacco from Turkey and the incense from Somalia. As a result, by bringing a lighting to the dark facets of the vanilla, Nathalie reveals it differently.
L’Atelier des Français Matières
These perfumes of the first collection of the Anthology of the Great Vintage are available at the Mad Lord boutique, in Paris. It is a discreet practically hidden place as one has to know its address. Once you have overcome tne porte cohére Mad Lords is inthe back of the yard. It poned three years ago now, it offers about forty jewell creators along with accessories such as perfumes. That is how Remi Pulverail will tell me « I wanted to choose a place in Paris were the clients would be welcome ans well looked after. For me luxury does not mean only a price but a customer service ».
I personally approve totally his thought. But, how do you explain that a fragrance sold at 1250euros for the flacon and 250 euros for the refill, has no samples so to allow the client to make his choice peacefully at home ? Same as that Nathalie Feisthauer’s work is superb with an exceptional quality of the raw materials, it’s too bad the perfume lover cannot have the leisure to take his time to choose his new perfume.
These four beautiful perfumes are shown in a bos that containes :
- a cristal (mouth blown) rechargeable, vintage,numbered flacon with the choice of a golpd-plated or palladium pump. The flacon is Marcel Frank’s creation.
- on the label are mentioned the name of the fragrance, the number of weeks ot maturation and the number of maceration.
- a flannel pouch, made in France by artists.
- a perfume refill to choose among the four fragrances
- a glass funnel